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  • 11/03/2022 10:25 AM | Innes Mercean (Administrator)

    From Sue Meany

    It has been a banner year for green tomatoes. My husband, Kent, create a recipe which allows you to bake the green tomatoes in the oven without frying them in a skillet which makes a mess. The clean-up is not fun! 

    If you have leftover baked green tomatoes, you can freeze them in in a plastic container in the freezer. Line the bottom of the container with waxed or parchment paper, place the baked tomato slices on the paper with a little room to spare. Add additional sheets of paper to keep the tomatoes from sticking together. Add the final layer of paper before sealing the top of the container. Eat them before next year’s green tomato harvest!


    Baked Green Tomatoes

    INGREDIENTS

    4 large green tomatoes

    2 eggs

    1/2 cup milk

    1 cup all-purpose flour

    1/2 cup cornmeal

    1/2 cup bread crumbs

    2 teaspoons coarse kosher salt

    1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper

    vegetable oil for browning

    DIRECTIONS

    Preheat oven to 400 degrees

    Slice tomatoes 1/2 inch thick. Discard the ends.

    Whisk eggs and milk together in a medium sized bowl.

    Scoop flour onto a plate

    Mix cornmeal, bread crumbs, salt and pepper on another plate

    Dip tomatoes into flour to coat

    Then dip the tomatoes into milk and egg mixture

    Dredge in breadcrumb mixture to completely coat

    Either brush or spray the tomatoes with a think coat of oil to help then brown

    Place the tomatoes on a sheet pan

    Do not crowd the tomatoes, they should not touch each other

    Place on a rack in the middle of the oven(or upper and lower third if you're doing two trays

    Brown the tomatoes on the first side, approximately 15 minutes

    Flip and brown the other side, again, approximately 15 minutes

    Drain them on paper towels if necessary.


    If you have any questions, please contact us at: kentevanthomas@gmail.com or suemeany@gmail.com


  • 11/03/2022 9:00 AM | Innes Mercean (Administrator)

    From Judy Leheny

    The Pocket Park is Chappaqua’s Central Park in miniature. It is the garden between Susan Lawrence and the traffic light where so many people come and relax, drink their coffee, amuse children in strollers and even take their annual family portrait. In recent years it has been tended by Anne Boyd (and her husband) and the late Maria Carvao.  Anne’s family is away all summer so this year there would have been no one to tend the Park. That’s how this project started and it has been very, very successful. 


    Each Thursday, as their schedules permitted, a core group of 10 would gather between 9:30 and 11:30 to renovate the Park.  The key to success seems to have been that people, though devoted to the garden, would not have to come if life intervened and they couldn’t show up. In practice, a great camaraderie developed and we were never fewer than 8. There was a lot of laughter, shared stories and, by the by, a lot of garden lore and techniques were imparted:  how to prune a rose bush, how to deadhead Butterfly Bushes to keep the Monarch butterflies coming, how to reduce the size of Hydrangeas, how to prune Russian Sage and much, much more. One of the unexpected and interesting things that happened was how people “took ownership” of certain plants as they took care of them. It has been a great time for novice gardeners to learn. Treasures were uncovered beneath overgrown plants – a beautiful yellow rose which kept blooming all summer and, recently, Autumn Crocus, a total surprise.  

    Each Thursday, after we had finished, we would sit around and drink lemonade and eat homemade chocolate chip cookies and look at what we had accomplished that day.  And what needed to be tackled the next week!  Every single day people would stop by and thank us for all our hard work.  

    Our Thursdays are on hiatus until the spring but there will be one more Thursday this fall when we shall gather to put the garden to bed for the winter.  A couple of our gardeners will not be able to help us next spring, so we are going to need more help.  The only thing required is a sense of humor.  Call Judy Leheny, (914-420-9246) or Anne Boyd (914) 238-9326) if you want to know more about the “Park Rangers.”

  • 11/03/2022 8:13 AM | Innes Mercean (Administrator)

    From Judy Leheny

    Getting ready for winter:

    1. Throw your gardening gloves in the wash!

    2. Take care of your tools.  This is something that usually gets skipped but it is really important for your investment.  Wash all the dirt off your tools and leave them in the sun to dry.  If they have wood handles  and you’re really serious, rub the handles with a little vaseline to nourish the wood.

    3. After you have washed the tools, disconnect the hoses, tie them in circles so they don’t get tangled and put them in a frost-free place so that the water residue inside them doesn’t freeze and burst the hose.  Disconnect the nozzle before storing; it can corrode on the hose connection and then you won’t be able to remove it.

    4. When you plant your bulbs, put a small handful of bone meal in the bottom of the hole to nourish root formation.

    5. Bring ceramic pots inside so they don’t crack in the frost; it’s okay to stack plastic ones outside.

    6. Store birdseed in galvanized garbage cans in the garage so mice so don’t get at it.

    7. Likewise, I discovered that mice are attracted to liquid fish fertilizer and punched tiny holes in the plastic container; keep it in the house or in a mouse-proof container.

    8.Cut your geraniums back hard, shake off the dirt and store in a paper bag in a warm place.  They’ll perk right back up in spring once you plant them and begin watering.

    9. Dig up your dahlia and begonia tubers and winter them inside.  Various ways of doing this on Google.

    Hunker down for the winter and wait for the beautiful, colorful garden catalogues which are produced by teams of gardeners in greenhouses - not like the rest of us.


  • 11/01/2022 7:39 AM | Innes Mercean (Administrator)

    From Mathew McDowell, Wildflower Island Curator at Teatown Lake Reservation

    Rosedale nursery is a good place to get native shrubs and trees in particular (they have perennials as well but their selection of native herbaceous stuff isn't as good as their native woody plants). They host the Native Plant Center's fundraiser plant sale, which is a good time to pick up stuff.

    I would also recommend the following local nurseries. They all focus on natives, all do it the right way, and all have incredible stock lists of stuff that can be hard to find: 

    https://onenaturellc.com  Based in Beacon.

    http://nativelandscaping.net  Based in Pawling.

    https://wildgardensnursery.com In Cortlandt Manor

    HilltopHanover  https://hilltophanoverfarm.square.site has a native plant propagation program that's only growing plants that were originally from locally sourced seeds. This is particularly useful as it helps preserve regional genetics, so these plants aren't just native they're also specifically from this area. 

    A bit further out but Earth Tones in Connecticut http://www.earthtonesnatives.com  and Toadshade in New Jersey  

    https://www.toadshade.com are also awesome and worth the schlep, especially if you're looking for rarer things.

    There are a lot of good, online retailers that ship as well. Some of the nurseries I've used with clients include:

    https://www.prairiemoon.com/

    https://www.prairienursery.com

    These two are the really big ones. They're based in the midwest and I've been trying to pivot to buying more locally when able, but you can't go wrong with either. I've only ever had great experiences with them. 

    https://wildseedproject.net

    Based in Maine. They sell seed packets derived from local ecotypes primarily but their website has a ton of great info on it so it's worth looking at regardless. 

    https://www.amandasnativeplants.com

    New York based native nursery that ships. I ordered things from them for clients and I was pleased. They have a nice selection, especially of woodland plants and I like that they're more local.

    https://wildridgeplants.com

    New Jersey based native nursery that ships and works on restoration projects. Same story with Amanda's Native Plants, got things and I've been very happy so far, and they've got a really nice selection. They also specialize in local ecotypes and have a fantastic stocklist. 


  • 10/01/2022 11:37 PM | Innes Mercean (Administrator)

    What an exciting day!!! We had our first Garden Jr's event today. We took the children out to check on the plants ( from the spring) . The children found 2 caterpillars!! ( the library suggested naming them "Macadamia" and "Cashew" - lol) on the milkweed the CGC planted. Then, Melanie opened up a pod. We looked at the seeds and the kids let them fly away. We checked on the pussytoes which are nice and healthy. Then, we walked back to discuss annuals, biennials and perennials. 

    While Melanie searched for jewelweed, the kids learned about the differences and sorted seed packets into baskets ( annual /perennial). They looked at the aster plants to see which flowers were pollinated. Melanie returned with the jewelweed pods. Parents, kids and staff delighted in bursting open the pods. Those corkscrews are so cool. We ran out of time. We handed each child an aster plant and shovel ( I had leftover from a few years ago - what do you do with 40 kid shovels, lol) Melanie distributed a sheet with aster information. We invited the parents to attend the Community Day celebration. Many said they would attend! Hooray! A GREAT DAY!! Thanks - many, many thanks to Melanie - that expertise makes the event great! Thanks to the garden club for your support!! 


  • 10/01/2022 11:35 PM | Innes Mercean (Administrator)

    Submitted by Judy Leheny

    -If you are planting shrubs or trees this Fall, remember that “First year,  they sulk; second year, they settle; third year, they sprint!”  So please allow room for them to sprint!

    - Deep water your gardens now to prepare them for the winter.  The drought this summer has left them with roots near the surface looking for water, and those roots will freeze and die during what is predicted to be a very cold winter.  Let those roots go deep now.

    -Daffodils should go in the ground now; Tulips do best if planted closer to Thanksgiving.

    -Deadhead your perennials so strength goes to the roots and leaves and not to seed formation.  If you want to prune them now, (phlox, etc.) prune them to about 12 inches so that falling leaves will “catch” in the dead stalks and help insulate the roots.

    - Prune deciduous (lose their leaves) peonies down to the ground and throw the leaves away, do NOT compost them!

    - Delicately prune the leaves off the Tree Peonies to the next year’s growth (you’ll be able to see it) and throw those leaves away as well.  You’ll wind up with the woody structure of the plant which is what you want.  If you want to move Peonies, do it now - not in the spring - and be sure to give them a good size hole with plenty of compost and be careful not to plant them too deep or they won’t bloom!

    -Begin to spray against deer and rabbit damage.  Besides the usual fare, they love Grape Hyacinths which has lucious foliage through the winter.


  • 08/01/2022 11:31 PM | Innes Mercean (Administrator)

    Submitted by Judy Leheny

    Last Spring about ten members signed up to work on the Pocket Park in downtown Chappaqua. It quickly evolved into a tight core that met every Thursday at 9:30 and worked until noon. There were as many as 10 on a day but never fewer than 5 and people came according to their own schedules. One day one of the group who hadn’t been expected because of medical problems came anyway because “I miss everyone”.  

    We worked hard even in the intense heat of the summer and came to be known as the “summer sweaters”. But, most of all, people got to know and care about each other and, as a bonus, learned what was a weed and what was a plant, how to prune, when to deadhead and when not, the proper way to transplant and all sorts of other garden knowledge.  Each day we worked, people stopped by, admired what we were doing and said how much they used and loved the Park. One day, Board members from the Pleasantville Garden Club visited to inspect and admire and take away ideas for their own public garden. And each day, as we were finishing, we would look around and admire the difference we had made that day.  And what was needed the following week!

    Among the things we accomplished: ivy and Climbing  Hydrangea were removed from the neighboring walls, bags and bags of weeds and pruning’s taken to the dump, Paulo Carvao (Maria’s husband) excavated a bronze plaque honoring the CGC which had been hidden by overgrown plants and moved it to a prominent place near the benches, Brian Wigley and a friend removed a hornet’s nest the size of a basketball that we hadn’t noticed until August, a stone from the garden was carved as a memorial to Maria Carvao who had worked on the Park but died suddenly in December, poison ivy was eradicated, and much more. And throughout the summer Alwyn Boyd (Anne’s husband) weed-whacked the grass. Along the way, we gratefully drank water brought over from the cleaners across the street, enjoyed lemonade Emma purchased, and devoured goodies from Brian and Judy. The end of summer was celebrated with lunch on Judy’s patio where the now-experienced gardeners tactfully avoided mentioning the weeds!

    We are not an exclusive group and would enthusiastically welcome anyone who wanted to show up on Thursday mornings. Contact Anne Boyd or Judy Leheny if you would like to join us.

  • 05/01/2022 11:42 PM | Innes Mercean (Administrator)

    Submitted by Judy Leheny

    New York City has its Central Park – an oasis of flowers and green where one can escape the noise and busyness of the city.  Chappaqua has its own Central Park called the Pocket Park, located right in the middle of downtown. It, too, is an oasis that a surprising variety of people visit to rest, look at the garden, eat their lunch, enjoy their coffee, meet friends.  

    The Pocket Park was planned nearly thirty years ago by one of the Chappaqua Garden Club members who was a professional garden designer. It has been tended by CGC members, most faithfully, by Anne Boyd and her husband. A number of club members have helped over the years but now it is time for a systematic overhaul of weeding, pruning and planting.  

    We need a dedicated crew of “park rangers” who will commit to just two (2) hours a month from spring to fall.  We anticipate that small groups of 2-4 will mutually decide which day of a particular week and at which hour they will meet to do what is needed.  There is a lot of FLEXIBILITY to accommodate the members of each mini-group.  There will be an experienced gardener on tap to indicate what needs to be done and to help novices to identify plants and weeds. No experience is necessary. Think of it as a free horticultural course where you can have fun and conversation while you are sprucing up a community gem. Think of the pride you will feel as we complete different phases.

    There will be an organizational meeting at the Park after the Plant Sale. Please contact Anne Boyd or Judy Leheny for further information as to how you can help.

  • 01/13/2021 12:40 PM | Anonymous

    Book review from Nance Greenberg: Planting Native to Attract Birds to Your Yard by Sharon Sorenson

    A few years ago, Sorenson decided to do a “full-year bird count”. Rather than focusing exclusively on birds that visited her feeders, she spent a lot of time outdoors recording the species she observed (or heard) each week on her three acres of property. What she learned was very interesting:

    She counted 114 species of birds but only 29 of them (about one-quarter) visited her feeders

    Of the 114 species, 76 were migrating through the area, with a need for high-protein nutrition in spring (i.e., insects) and fats in the fall

    Year-round residents were typically raising nestlings, who eat insects rather than seeds

    She realized that there is more to attracting birds than simply putting out feeders and feed. Birds utilize plants not only for food but also for shelter, nesting sites, nest materials, safety from predators, and more. Each type of bird she observed needed a particular habitat: the right plantings plus a source of water. She concluded that the more diversified the plantings in a garden, the more species will come to make use of it.

    For sure, we should add plants that provide food in the form of berries, seed, fruit and nectar. But the most vital nutrient for birds (just like humans) is protein. Plants cannot provide protein directly. Instead, animals must create it. For us humans, protein comes from cows and sheep munching on grass. For birds, insects provide the equivalent transformation, turning leaves into caterpillars, butterflies, beetles, etc.

    Some 96% of songbirds feed their babies bugs (the exceptions being Mourning Doves and American Goldfinches). Experts have found that one brood of babies needs 300 caterpillars per day, so that if the average couple feed two broods over a typical nesting period, that adds up to 8,000 caterpillars! Adult birds also eat bugs during breeding season.

    Why native? Turns out that 90% of bugs are plant-specific, breeding and feeding on sometimes a single native plant species. Often non-native plants contain toxins that kill bugs (which is why we buy them in the first place). Native berries, especially in the fall, have more fat content for migrating birds. Native evergreens such as hemlock, pine, cedar, fir and juniper (with American Holly being the best) provide shelter from predators and winter weather.

    In Chapter 3 she answers our questions about native plants. A few of them:

    What to do when we’re all starting with gardens full of non-natives, including “heritage” plants from relatives and friends? (One answer: reduce that lawn!)

    Won’t the garden be too messy? (“Native” does not mean “untended”!)

    Aren’t non-natives harmless?

    Early leaf-out of non-natives can cause cardinals to establish their territories too early, making them an easy target for predators

    Early leaf-out shades out (thus killing off) native plants

    Berries low in fat and protein cause poor health and less colorful plumage, making birds less attractive to potential mates

    Some non-native berries are actually poisonous (e.g. Nandina berries which kill Cedar Waxwings)

    Some non-natives can actually poison the soil around them

    Lawn is non-native and may even be toxic to birds if maintained by a lawn service

    What type of native to buy?

    The straight species from your general region of the country is best

    A “cultivar” (sometimes termed “nativar”) is produced by cloning, meaning it has no genetic diversity; sometimes its bird-friendly characteristics have even been bred out

    Avoid man-made hybrids – often they don’t produce nectar or seed

    Chapter 4 describes how to add natives to an existing garden. Sorenson suggests we start with an inventory of what’s already there, pointing out that many gardens have been invaded by a “Dirty Dozen” of non-natives that should be eliminated immediately. The inventory identifies what is missing, such as shelter or nest materials. Finally, water must be available (and ice-free) all year round. This is a difficult one, but it appears that a neighbor’s pond or stream could suffice.

    Chapters 5, 6 and 7 provide descriptions of native trees, shrubs and perennials along with their growing requirements. It’s best to plant shrubs and perennials in masses so that birds can spot their blooms from above. She notes that shrubs are good for small lots, providing nest space, shelter and roosting in winter.

    Additional chapters detail how to add water sources, how to eradicate invasives, how to sort through misleading plant labels, and more.


  • 10/01/2020 12:37 PM | Anonymous

    Submitted by Sue Meany - October 2020

    It’s time to plant alliums to harvest in the spring! Kent and I both enjoy growing and cooking with both garlic and shallots. Tradition dictates that the appropriate time to plant these bulbs is between Halloween and Thanksgiving while more recent studies indicate that the planting time can be moved into early October if the soil is mulched heavily, 6 inches or so. Hard neck varieties grow best in our planting area (6a). Soft neck garlic is generally not hardy enough to grow successfully here. We recently purchased three new garlic varieties: Music, German Extra Hardy, and Chesnok Red from Hudson Valley Seed Co. We saved bulbs from last year’s harvest of Siberian and Polish Hardnecks. Alliums prefer well drained soil in a sunny area. Be sure not to grow alliums where they were planted last year. Planting garlic is relatively simple:

    Add compost to the prepared beds. If you have raised beds, use them. (we are proponents of no till gardening whenever possible)

    Separate the cloves from the heads of garlic.

    Plant the cloves 4” to 6” apart, and push each clove with the pointed end up and the blunt end down approximately 1” to 2” deep. Fill in the holes and firm the soil.

    Water the area thoroughly. Water when soil dries out.

    Spread 3” to 6” of salt hay or other mulch to cover the planting area. Note: Salt hay does not have viable seeds and will not sprout in the soil.

    In several weeks if you carefully look under the mulch, you will begin to see green shoots sprouting. It is important that the green sprouts remain covered by mulch throughout the winter as winds can wick out moist and desiccate the cloves. In spring, when the weather warms, much of the mulch can be removed and used for some other purpose. Leaving and inch or two of mulch will aid in weed suppression. Garlic likes the soil to remain moist but make sure it is not soggy.

    In approximately June, the plants will send up a curled sprout with a pointed top known as a scape. The scapes will take energy from the developing bulbs and so should be removed once the seed head forms (the seeds are not viable). But do not discard them as they are a yummy treat! The tender portion of the neck of the scape can be sautéed in butter or olive oil, made into pesto or pureed.

    In July, when a few of the lower leaves turn brown, remove any remaining mulch to allow the soil to begin to dry out. When approximately half of the leaves have turned brown, dig and prepare for curing.

    After harvesting the garlic and shallots, hang each variety in smallish bunches in a warm, dry location out of direct sunlight to cure them. We suspend them underneath the roof our gazebo, but a porch or other covered area will serve you well. Once necks and outer skins are completely dry, they are cured. This can take two weeks or even more depending on temperature and humidity. Clip the necks off leaving about ½-1 inch of the neck intact. At this time, also remove the roots from the bottom of the bulb. Use any damaged bulbs in cooking and store the rest in a dark and dry location, providing plenty of air flow. We place them in net bags and hang them in our basement which is equipped with a dehumidifier, but somewhere even cooler which does not freeze would be ideal. The garlic will store for 4-6 months before beginning to sprout. Be sure to save the biggest cloves for next year’s crop. Bigger cloves grow bigger heads!

    We also purchased Dutch Red Shallot bulbs to plant in the fall which we will harvest in early summer. The process of planting the shallots is similar to that of the garlic. Make sure to mulch them as well. Like other bulbing onions, they should be harvested when the green shoots fall down, usually in July.

    Please contact me at suemeany@gmail.com with questions or suggestions.


  

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